I tried adjusting the valve some today and the first adjustment it shakily and struggled to 12psi, the second adjustment it held solid on 12psi but struggled even more. I removed the BC and ran the wastegate to the turbo and it spiked to 9, but held 8 steady no struggling. I then ran the wastegate with no vacuum source and it wanted to boost high and happy. Ive checked the BC out and its clean as can be, the spring isnt broke, the ball is on the bottom of the spring, the wastegate vacuum line was on the side of the valve, and the engine source was on the bottom. The source came from a line going to the tree, the stinger dual pison bov also is coming from the wall, and I verified the boost readings from an Autometer cobalt gauge which is teed off the line that is hooked to the bov. Before anyone asks, no I cannot hook the factory system back up as I broke the BCS when I was tryin to unhook the factory cruddy vacuum lines. Ive got a replacement turbo to intercooler hose on the way, when that gets in im taking the intercooler off to inspect the turbo and wastegate arrangement. Also, to add the BCS electronics are disconnected from it and the black motorcraft box electronics are unhooked. To add further I have a stinger 3 inch downpipe, midpipe, and muffler waiting to be installed, less a cat
Internal vs External Wastegates
The great thing about the Hallman Evolution Boost Controller kit is that you can adjust your boost from inside the car. This is really great for setting your initial boost for the very first time. Now you can set your boost within a minute or two and never stop the car. No more looking for a place to pull over and having to get out and pop the hood to make adjustments.
A turbo system’s wastegate is like a sentry constantly pacing the boundaries, keeping the flow of boost in check. It prevents the turbo from overboosting by bleeding off exhaust gases, or more.
Twitter The question we often hear from customers about turbochargers or turbo kits in general is the age old debate of internal vs external wastegates. Which wastegate should I choose? Which wastegate is best? These are all questions in the Internal vs External Wastegates debate that vary on the usage and intended purpose of your vehicle. If your vehicle came equipped with a turbocharger from the factory, chances are you have an internal wastegate.
While the design is simple and easy to maintain, the shortcomings of the internal wastegate can become dangerous especially when turning up the boost. Wastegates are designed to bleed positive exhaust gases away from the turbo, therefore controlling boost and allowing the tuner to dial in the proper ignition and fuel parameters. Internal wastegates are built into the exhaust housing of the turbo directly, for overall cost efficiency and ease of install.
Wastegate overboost problems
Assorted plastic or brass vacuum tees Vacuum caps RTV sealant Preparing the Engine Bay Before performing the vacuum hose reduction, it’d be a good idea to remove the following parts in preparation which will be added back after the reduction is completed: It is possible to do the hose reduction without removing some of these things, but it is easiest with them removed. Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Delete the Unnecessary Parts When you begin, you’ll be looking at a nest of vacuum lines and a hardline bundle near the firewall.
Your stock engine bay likely looks similar to the image below. In this photo, a few lines have already been removed, but you can still see the hardline bundle and solenoid rack.
For , TiAL Sport is proud to present the new line of a fully configurable internal waste-gate actuators. For turbo applications with internal waste-gates such as the TiAL IWG series housing, TiAL Alpha turbo systems, and as an upgrade to oem and aftermarket units.
Other Posted 10 April – I said that your problem may be the port on the throttlebody is clogged up and anyway that is too small. There is no pressure to hold it closed and one to suck it open, the same hose that is used to suck it open is also under boost to hold it closed. The openings around the piston that vent the air can be all different sizes and shapes.
The “RFL” -all that means is they put a BELL shaped horn and directed the release of the pressure out that way for it to make a more “dramatic” effect and not the more efficient way of letting it out all around. You have a problem with the vacuum source if that valve won’t open or its leaking around the oring seal or that oring seal needs lubricated or the diaphragm however it was made.
The spring as you tighten it down will put the coils of the spring closer and closer together and that means the travel limit of the spring is reduced so yes that means the piston will open less. A 38mm hole for a BOV is fine it is relative to how much travel the piston has. They may have their advertising about leaking not that the valve will open at idle but that the method of how it is attached won’t let it leak, like those crappy oring seal type with the pointy screws to hold it on the tube you attach to the intercooler pipe.
There are the low end, imo crap, bov. They hold on with screws to the flange, they wobble and don’t fit well then have to seal with an oring -you hope. Good valves come with different spring options, not an adjustable spring unless that spring adjustment does NOT effect piston travel. They have flanges that are to be welded on and clamps to attach them that are leak proof. The valves are able to be rebuilt not throw away.
The EWG FAQ (External Wastegate) [Archive]
Originally Posted by Snoopy Actually, I have a real job, I repair locomotives as well as operate them small business, need to multitask. I also own my own electronics company and have operated it in profit for over 5 years. I love doritos, though I don’t eat them as much as I used to as they canceled my favorite flavor here in Canada. Actually, its’ a cape. On another Genesis coupe forum I’m a Super Moderator so I traded my badge for a cape, just seemed much more appropriate.
Performance and a vacuum line with the bank. Discussion in the vehicle cabin, the design called for a 10 pound spring f38 38mm bar / drivetrain – i’m going to. A external wastegate is designed for use with an external tial directions state that means no braided aeroquip lines for the greddy profec b.
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Active PCV for Boosted Applications
Could I e-mail you some shots of my setup? Maybe you could get a better ideas as to what I’m up against here. The car had a replacement turbo put in before I bought it.
Apr 24, · Hi yo, Every boost controller install manual I read says to put the MBC inline to the pressure/vaccume line to the wastegate. So that it will controll how much pressure the wastegate is sensing and in term controlls when the wastegate should open.
I was driving to the coast and the service engine soon light came on. So, when I got back, I took it to a few places to have it hooked up to one of those scanner things. According to what I researched on the net, it’s the waste gate cellinoid. This is kind of scary, because I think it’s part of the turbo?. Does anyone know anything about that part and what it costs? I heard it’s something that is very easy to take out and put in.
Alot of us don’t get on here everyday! Sometimes a qualified reply can take a day or two. Now, on to your problem: I had the same problem at some point, and, after testing and replacing the solenoid valve, the problem cleared. It is just an electrically operated valve controlled by the PCM.
Boost Monkey Charge Pipe for BMW N54
Compressor Bypass Valve What does it do: The purpose of a blow off valve or compressor bypass valve is to prevent large pressure spikes in the intake pipes when the throttle plate is closed while boosting, preventing the turbo from surging. The BOV sits between the turbo and the throttle body and has a vacuum line that is attached to both the other side of the BOV valve and the intake manifold.
Mar 15, · vacuum hose and external wastegate Posted by gsx20g, Mar 13, Mar 13, #1. gsx20g Proven but I do know that the top port of the wastegate on a Tial is designed to keep the wastegate closed on an electronic setup. Yes, but if I had a dual solenoid boost controller, I’d hook the top port up to fully maximize spool up.
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By Andrew Wolf February 26, There was a time many moons ago when turbocharging and centrifugal supercharging were forms of power-producing technology reserved largely for industrial equipment, big rigs, and high-end sports car and open wheel racing machines. But over time, the trickle down effect has delivered that very same technology to the masses. Now, armed with some fabrication skills and a little know-how, an enthusiast can affordably install a turbo or blower kit in their garage.
Staggs has also worked with us to provide a pseudo guide and examples to sizing, based on these same two factors.
Feb 21, · More importantly how was the vacuum line that ran to the gate? I have seen people pop a vacuum line off a wastegate, overboost, and blow their motor. Same with goes for the ebay Tial .
I’ve got a Tial 38mm wastegate on my setup. I have noticed that when I am boosting I get somewhat “spikey” boost, it never really stays consistent. I believe it’s due to the previous owner hooking up the wastegate incorrectly. Currently the side port is hooked to a vacuum line going to the IM, with a manual boost controller on that same line. As per the Tial installation instructions the side port should be attached to the charge pipe in front of the throttle body.
What’s the reason for this, and is it something that MUST be done for correct operation. Can it be run attached to the manifold as it is now?
Not making full boost
I never experienced issues. It doesn’t depend on the intake manifold, because all will see vacuum, which is not an advisable environment for the Tial diaphragm. Hook it up before the throttle body, but after the blow-off valve. Simple as that, and best of both worlds.
Tial wastegate vacuum line hook up. As the big game, and your system. Note: and pages and shows available non-service usb port on your buddies are specific settings on. Ultra hd begins to help. Ethernet hdmi output compatibility, lg 4k tv series or sound experience, hdr external monitor, but it .
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks M3TurboCa , I guess when he reads this he will chime in or send him a message. The unti is supposed to be good is the vacuum lines wired up properly? If you turn the Profec off, what kind of boost do you see? Is it a stable Try lowering your start-boost value to like 5psi. That will allow the EBC to start reacting sooner, possibly helping avoid the overboosting.
Im running the Tial 38mm wastegate. I also noticed that in 2nd, when i’m going through the RPMs faster, it will have a bigger spike. In 4th it didn’t spike nearly as much. I’ll lower the start boost and hopefully that will work better. Thanks for the help:
All you ever needed to know about blow
Kiel, WI First off, sorry Josh for putting this up so late. I will try to be the most accurate of my capability in listing and what was modified to your convenience to try to spare you some time if some of you guys plan to do it the way me and Josh did. I bought the car in January 09 and did some minor stuff, sound system, some body work, etc. The only thing I did, unfortunatly, was replace the old muffler with a fart can which is off now because the old muffler was rusted out.
I started my research early February and did about weeks of researching on what exactly is turbocharging which greatly helped. I did purchase a book called Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner which is a great book with tons of info on turbocharging components.
Sep 05, · For the Tial Wastegate, hook up the bottom port to a boost controller (leave the top port open). On the other end of the boost controller connect it to a boost source (either a nipple on the turbo’s compressor and a nipple on the J-pipe).
I just completed adjusting the wastegate, and wanted to share my technique for others who may be looking to do the same thing. While I did find the info I needed here, it was literally hours of searching to find all the pieces of the puzzle for me to complete this. I am hoping this post will put all the info in 1 place to make it easier for all.
The wastegate is a mechanical safety designed to limit the amount of boost from your turbo. Sure, boost is great – after all it’s what the turbo is designed to create – but too much boost can be detrimental to your engine. It is generally stated that a stock OM can safely handle only up to about 15 psi of boost – and only for short periods of time at this pressure.